Hello and Bom Dia,
even though I am back in Portugal for 2,5 weeks the conditions for surfing or water photography weren´t the best. We had storm almost every day and really big and messy waves so I was not able to go play in the water. But times and weather change and yesterday the waves were nice, the sun was shining and I was so convinced to finally try my Christmas gift! My yellow Gath - water helmet, because for my safety comes first! With this I am seen by surfers, I am fully protected against nasty fin cuts when I am too close to a surfer in a wave or if somebody loses his board and the worst thing that could happen is suffering from a mild concussion after getting hit by a surfer or surfboard. And if I would get unconscious in a crash I would be seen easier from people in the line-up or from the beach. Also, I feel like one of the Minions and that makes me happy :)
Hallo und Bom Dia aus Portugal
nachdem es die letzten 2,5 Wochen die ich jetzt schon wieder in Portugal bin immer sehr stürmisch und begleitet von sehr großen Wellen war, hatte ich gestern endlich Glück und konnte mein Weihnachtsgeschenk ausprobieren. Ich habe mir einen Wasser-Surf-Helm gewünscht um Kopfverletzungen beim Fotografieren im Wasser zu verringern. Ich hatte vor zwei Jahren mal einen Surfunfall, bei dem mich eine Surfschülerin mit ihrem Foam-Brett überfahren hat und ich dann 3 Tage mit schwerer Gehirnerschütterung flach lag, das reicht einmal. Und nachdem ich zum Fotografieren meistens direkt unter der Wellenschulter oder sogar kurz unterm Peak sitze und damit dem Surfenden quasi direkt vor der Nase, geht hier für mich Sicherheit dem Style ganz klar vor. Ich hab keine Lust auf hässliche Platzwunden durch Finnen oder Zusammenpralls mit Surfboard-rails und außerdem werde ich mit leuchtend gelbem Kopf besser gesehen.
See the yellow dot? That´s my head! To be honest the waves looked smaller from the outside and I was busy diving under every wave of every incoming set. And even though I didn´t shot one single picture in the line-up I had a very good training session. I got sucked away by the current and got stuck between the end of the impact zone and the beginning of the reef, but I managed to keep calm and focused. I didn´t panic and I was able to find a safe way out and back to the beach. There will be a better outcome next time.
Joa, der gelbe kleine Punkt da ist mein Kopf und die große Weißwasser Walze ist nur eine von vielen die ich bei meinem gestrigen Ausflug durchtauchen musste. Vom Strand sah natürlich alles mal wieder kleiner aus und so war ich mehr mit schwimmen und atmen und abtauchen beschäftigt, als dass ich Fotos machen konnte. Und trotzdem war es für mich eine erfolgreiche Session, da ich erstens vollkommen auf mich alleine gestellt war im Wasser, ich ruhig und konzentriert geblieben bin und selbst als ich in der Strömung zwischen Ende der Impact-Zone und Anfang des Riffs festgesteckt bin, einen sicheren durch die Riffzungen zum Strand geschafft habe. Das nächste Mal gibt es dann hoffentlich wieder Bilder aus dem Line-up. :)
All pictures shot with the Panasonic Lumix GH5, 100-300mm lens
by Yoyo Terhorst
Edit by me
Hamburg got me hooked! I felt in love with this city as soon as I left the train Friday night at the central station. The Saturday I spent walking around in the freezing cold, letting myself get carried away from the new impressions. Every time I am in a new city I have to be the tourist for a day! Not especially seeing all the tourist "Must-see´s" from the inside and outside, squeezed into little busses or rooms with thousands of other tourists like sheep. No, I prefer to wander around the city and do a little sightseeing tour through my camera lens. And in Hamburg, the mix of old brick buildings and the modern glass storefronts together with the ice -packed Alster and Elbe and its many canals altogether with the blue sky and sunshine was a perfect setting for improving my photography skills. And what should I say, I was so distracted I didn´t realize the -10 degree Celsius and I will definitely come back to pay a visit in summer.
Hamburg, du Perle des Nordens. Ich bin wirklich begeistert von der Stadt mit ihrem Mix aus neuer Architektur und alten Gebäuden, die so viel Geschichte der Stadt erzählen. Gepaart mit dem tollen Wetter - auch der eisigen Kälte - die wir das erste Märzwochenede während unserem Besuch hatten, war die Speicherstadt mit den zugefrorenen Kanälen der Norderelbe (Hamburger, bitte korrigiert mich mit Bezeichnungen falls ihr Fehler entdeckt!) und das Viertel Hafencity eine tolle Kulisse um durch meine Kameralinse festgehalten zu werden. (SELP1650 Objektiv 16-55mm, plus 40,5mm UV-Filter oder Polarisationsfilter 40,5mm)
Ich plane auf jeden Fall Hamburg im Sommer nochmal einen Besuch abzustatten und auch um Freunde aus Hamburg von mir zu sehen, da das bei diesem Besuch leider viel zu kurz gekommen ist.
Hello my friends,
first I wanted to say thank you for all your lovely messages with your questions, ideas and your own words. It feels a bit unreal to see how many people actually watch and trace my online appearance and how many people feel inspired or are curious how I live my life. I sorted the questions by topics and I will start with Surfing: my progress, frustration and motivation and also about my fears.
Vielen lieben Dank für eure zahlreichen Nachrichten mit Fragen und Ideen was ihr gerne in Zukunft von mir lesen möchtet. Und nachdem ich ja eigentlich Deutsche bin und ihr mir immer wieder eure Anregungen auf Deutsch schreibt, dachte ich mir, dass ich ab 2018 alle Artikel zusätzlich auch in meiner Muttersprache schreiben werde. Den deutschen Text findet ihr immer kursiv unter dem englischen Artikel. Viel Spaß beim Lesen, eure Julia
I started surfing in June 2014 in Portugal at the exact beach where I still go surfing nearly every day so far. I always wanted to try this ´cool sport` that looked so easy and with a background of water sports - swimming, wind surfing and sailing - I was sure it would be easy-going. And I was so wrong. It took me not long to stand up for the first time but all the paddling and unknown movements made me felt sore and in the end I was so happy to be back on the beach. But I was hooked since the first try.
Meine ersten Surferfahrungen habe ich im Juni 2014 in Portugal gemacht, witzigerweise genau an dem Strand an dem ich heute mehrmals in der Woche surfen gehe. Ich war schon immer recht sportlich und bewegungsbegeistert und wollte schon immer surfen ausprobieren. Es sah einfach aus, `cool´ und in meiner Naivität war ich davon überzeugt, dass ich durch Schwimmen, Windsurfen und Segeln eh keine Probleme haben würde. Nach einer halben Stunde im Wasser paddelnd und sehr oft durchgewaschen hatte ich einen realistischeren Blick auf diesen Sport. Trotzdem weiss ich seit der ersten gesurften Welle, dass ich dieses Gefühl zu Surfen nie mehr missen möchte.
The progress I made in surfing is okay I think, also that I live next to the ocean since nearly two years already is making a big difference. Don´t get fooled by my Instagram account. I don´t have a 365 day vacation - I have a regular job, with normal working hours in the office but where other people go running in the park I go surfing.
I started surfing with a big foam surfboard and hated it! Within one year I changed for a Buster Egg 6´6 with 40l volume. 2016/17 I changed for a 5´11 surfboard from Sanctum with still a lot of volume. This board worked okaaaay for me and since April 2017 I surf my custommade pastelpink Baby from Buster with 5´10 and 24l volume. And since I own this board and surfed a lot with it, finally I can see some actual progress in technique and style.
Ich selbst würde mich jetzt nach 4 Jahren langsam mal als Intermediate-Surfer bezeichnen. Allerdings bin ich mit solchen Titeln immer vorsichtig. Ich habe vor allem die letzten beiden Jahre seitdem ich in Portugal lebe sehr viel gelernt, ich bin aber natürlich in meiner freien Zeit auch viel gesurft.
Angefangen habe ich mit einem dicken, fetten Foamboard und bis heute machen mich diese Boards echt aggressiv. Ich hab die Zeiten gehasst in denen ich dieses unhandliche Ding rumhieven musste. 2015 habe ich dann auf das Buster Egg 6´6 mit 40L Volumen umgelernt und dieses Board hat mir viel Freude bereitet. 2016/17 wurde es ein Sanctum 5´11 mit immer noch sehr viel Volumen und seit April 2017 habe ich mein custom-made Baby in pastelpink mit 5´10 und 24L Volumen und seitdem ich das surfe, mache ich deutliche Fortschritte.
Since summer 2017 I also own a yellow 9´2 (maybe it´s also 9´0) longboard which I try to surf on calmer days. It´s a completely different feeling of surfing, more cruising, and I will definitely keep learning it.
Seit Sommer 2017 besitze ich auch ein 9´2 Longboard und lerne langsam mich damit sicher im Wasser zu bewegen. Longboarden ist für mich vom Gefühl her komplett anders, mehr gleiten und cruisen und so wahnsinnig entspannt. Ich werde an kleineren Tagen in Zukunft bestimmt öfter damit surfen gehen, weil es mir wirklich sehr viel Spaß macht.
This part of the article is my favorite part. To understand my view better I will tell you something about me. I was always very good in sports, winning a lot of competitions in school, athletics, swimming and skiing and I was used to it because it was so normal for me. I can´t cope well with criticism and losing. If i didn´t won I always felt like a loser, because in my eyes I didn´t do my best. And surfing helped me improving this unflattering character of mine. Surfing was hard and is still hard for me. I´m not a natural and my so called ´talent´ is hard work and hundreds of bad hours. And yes, surfing shouldn´t be about feeling bad! But I did so often. I was angry with myself, I sometimes catch myself the head full of negativity till today. And why? Because I always compare myself to people way out my skill level. I know, that I can´t surf like someone who did this sport his whole life but I wish I could. And instead of concentrating on myself in this situations, on this beautiful moments out in the line-up, surround by waves, your friends and happiness I destroy every positive feeling with my grumpiness. And I had to learn to not giving this negativity too much room in my head.
In my time as surfer I kicked my surfboard I don´t know how often, I cried in self-pity on the beach or in the line-up, I was so angry and full of hate that I had so bad vibes I intoxicated my whole surf-squad. I wanted to never ever surf again so often, sell my boards and throw away everything that is surf-related and quit. Yes, this is unflattering and this behavior is the worst! And since I am not quitting I tried to fight back with love for myself and others. I try to be happy now in the water, be proud of the waves that are good and learning from the ones were my performance was not so good. I try to be calm, happy and concentrated. I cheer for people when they get good waves. And even when I just paddle out and don´t get one single wave I see it as improvement.
I also learned how to cope with my fears in the water. Since the beginning I am always afraid of bigger waves. Not the height or the wave as a whole but of the lip crushing down on me. I still am, but I try not to think about it anymore. My second biggest fear was the last wave, the shore break. I am always afraid that the last wave spits me and my board on the beach, crushing my head on the board. It´s a bit stupid because in the last 4 years nothing happened so far. The last fear I had was when I learned how to duck dive. In the beginning I was so afraid! And now it´s completely natural to push my board and me through or under a wave.
Ich weiß nicht wie viel ihr schon mitbekommen oder gelesen habt von mir, ich erwähne in vielen Artikeln gerne meine Unsicherheiten und Ängste und natürlich bin ich auch beim Surfen nicht davor gefeit. Ich habe leider diese unglaublich unsympathische Charaktereigenschaft, dass ich weder ein guter Verlierer bin, noch dass ich besondern gut mit Kritik umgehen kann. Ich war mein ganzes Leben immer gut in allen Sportarten die ich gemacht habe und bin aus vielen Wettbewerben immer auf dem Siegertreppchen rausgekommen. Schwimmen, Leichtathletik, Skifahren und die ganzen Schulsportarten. Gewinnen fiel mir immer sehr leicht und verlieren war ich nicht gewohnt. Und wenn ich verloren habe, war ich immer sauer auf mich, weil ich nicht mein Bestes gegeben habe. Jetzt beim Surfen musste ich das erste Mal richtig lernen mit dieser Charaktereigenschaft umzugehen.
Natürlich kann ich nicht gleich surfen, wie jemand der das sein ganzes Leben macht, aber ich war trotzdem sauer wenn etwas nicht geklappt hat. Statt die Situation im Line-up zugenießen, glücklich zu sein und Spaß zu haben, habe ich mich durch meinen Perfektionismus selbst kaputt gemacht. Natürlich steht man sich im Weg wenn man kein gutes Wort für sich selbst übrig hat, wenn man eifersüchtig ist auf das Können anderer. Unkonzentriert, unglücklich und unmotiviert kann man nicht surfen. Und das musste ich leider erstmal selber erfahren bis ich an mir arbeiten konnte. Ich hab schon mehrere Boards wütend auf den Strand gekickt, im Wasser oder am Strand geheult vor Wut und Frustration und wollte schon so oft alles verkaufen und wegwerfen was mit Surfen zu tun hat. Aber ich hab nie aufgegeben und gemerkt, dass ich meine Einstellung zu mir selbst komplett verändern muss. Ich versuche jetzt mich an allem was mit Surfen zu tun hat zu erfreuen und es gelassener zu sehen. Ich freue mich natürlich wenn ich eine gute Welle erwische und darauf eine gute Performance hinlege, aber ich schaue auch dass ich lerne warum eine andere Welle eben nicht so gut geklappt hat. Natürlich habe ich noch negative Momente, aber ich versuche dafür keinen Platz in meinem Kopf zu lassen und aus diesen negativen Gefühlen den wahren Grund herrauszufiltern und mich dann damit auseinanderzusetzen. Aber nicht beim Surfen, sondern mit einem klaren Kopf und einer Tasse Tee daheim und einem Notizbuch.
Meine Ängste im Surfen sind immer abhängig von meiner Einstellung zu Problemen und wie viel Raum ich diesen Ängsten in meinem Kopf gebe. Ich habe schon immer Angst vor größeren Wellen gehabt, nicht vor der Größe der Welle an sich, sondern vor der Wassermenge die auf mich herunterkrachen könnte. Genause geht es mir übrigens im Shorebreak. Dort habe ich immer Angst mit meinem Board auf den Strand geschleudert zu werden und mein Board an den Kopf zu bekommen. Ich denke, dass liegt einfach am Kontrollverlust der Situation, dass das Meer mit einem macht was es will und da ich gern die Kontrolle habe über alles was ich tue, fällt mir das das Loslassen schwer. Eine andere schlimme Situation für mich war das Duckdiven zu lernen. Ich hatte so Angst vor dieser für mich unlösbaren Aufgabe, das Board und mich unter einer Welle durchzubekommen. Mittlerweile konnte ich diese Angst überwinden und habe nur noch Respekt vor größeren Wellen, egal ob ich sie jetzt durchtauchen muss oder ob ich sie surfe.
I know it´s hard to stay motivated on a daily basis, the average human is so lazy! And am also really lazy when it comes to surfing. Sometimes I even don´t want to get into my wetsuit because I feel already exhausted just from the thought of putting it on! And with this attitude you can´t have fun!
So I always try to create a small `event´ just for me! And I don´t hesitate to combine these event with social media and my photography which helps me also to keep on track. When I go surfing I try to set as many positive little things around it. I normally prepare something to drink and a few healthy snacks while the batteries for my camera gear is filling up. I put everything I might need in the trunk of the car - bikinis, towel, socks, surfboards, fins - and go pick a wetsuit. Normally I also check the waves from my balcony and on the wave forecast. While driving to the spot I always need to listen to motivational music - for surfing that is normally a lot of surf movie soundtracks which inspire me to get out there and have fun. Wave check at the beach is especially celebrated by my boyfriend. I personally would prefer check one or two incoming sets and then going into the water. In the water I try to have as much fun as possible, while staying calm and focused on my technique and on my mood. Getting out of the water, getting into dry clothes and ending the session with some food or a little more time on the beach.
My motivation for improving my surfing skills are related to my daily sport routine and I will write about it in another part of the Q&A. Otherwise this blog post would get really long. If you read till here, congratulations and see you soon again :)
Ich bin nicht der motivierteste Mensch dieser Welt und außerdem oft einfach sehr bequem. Natürlich gehe ich gern surfen, aber manchmal wenn ich gemütlich auf der Couch liege und eine meiner Katzen mir nicht von der Seite weicht und der Wetterbericht und vor allem der Wellen-Forecast nicht so der Hit sind, tue ich mich ein bisschen schwer aufzustehen und loszulegen. Was mir immer hilft, ist aus einer Sache ein kleines Event zu machen. Und dann wird einmal surfen gehen eben zu einem Event mit vielen kleinen Schritten. Bisschen was zum Essen vorbereiten und Tee/ Eistee währenddessen laden meine Batterien für mein Fotoequipment. Dann packe ich alles was ich evtentuell brauchen könnte und noch mehr ins Auto und suche mir meinen Wetsuit nach Wetterverhältnissen aus. Musik darf natürlich auch nicht fehlen und wenn ich dann einmal am Spot angekommen bin, will ich eigentlich maximal ein, zwei Sets anschauen und dann sofort ins Wasser und lossurfen. Dabei versuche ich immer konzentriert und positiv zu bleiben um mir selbst nicht die Stimmung zu vermiesen. Wenn ich dann erschöpft aber normalerweise glücklich aus dem Wasser komme, freue ich mich, dass ich mich aufgerafft habe und beende die Session meistens mit Essen oder noch ein bisschen Zeit am Strand.
Meine Motivation was meine Surf Skills angeht, werde ich in einem anderen Teil des Q&A bearbeiten, da das viel mit meiner Sportroutine verknüpft ist und das hier auch noch zu beschreiben den Rahmen sprengen würde. Ich freue mich ja wenn jemand von euch bis hier unten gelesen hat. :)
Weihnachten steht vor der Tür und somit die Zeit des großen Konsums. Doch warum man als Surfer, Outdoorsportler und Ozeanfreund statt Plastik zu kaufen sein Geld lieber in ein Projekt gegen Plastik investieren sollte, lest ihr hier. Ich habe mit Valeska Schneider, der amtierenden deutschen Longboard Meisterin über ihr Projekt „Athletes against plastic“ gesprochen, dass sie während der ISA Longboard Championship im Januar 2018 in China starten möchte. Das Crowdfunding hat bereits ein Drittel der geplanten Endsumme erreicht und läuft noch bis zum 26.Dezember 2017.
Wer noch nicht ganz überzeugt ist, den interessiert vielleicht dass mindestens 10% der Endsumme an die gemeinnützige Organisation "The Ocean Clean Up" gespendet werden. Außerdem gibt es auf der Crowdfunding Seite ein paar kleine Goodies der Veranstalter z.B. bei einer Spende von 10€ besteht die Möglichkeit eine Woche Surfcamp in Frankreich zu gewinnen.
ATHLETES AGAINST PLASTIC
Hier ein paar generelle Infos von der Projektseite:
Im Januar 2018 finden in China die ISA Longboard Weltmeisterschaften statt, wo wir Deutschland repräsentieren dürfen. Unsere Idee ist es von einem Kameramann begleitet, nach China zu reisen und anlässig der Weltmeisterschaft einen Kurzfilm zu drehen. Dieser Film soll Aufmerksamkeit für die Belastung unserer Meere durch Plastikmüll schaffen - athletes against plastic.
Mit Eindrücken des Geschehens um die Weltmeisterschaft, thematischen Kurzinterviews, beeindruckenden Landschafts- und Longboardaufnahmen und einer Message, die über Landesgrenzen hinaus von zunehmender Bedeutung ist, sind wir zuversichtlich einen spannenden Film drehen zu können, der viele Leute erreicht und zum Handeln und Nachdenken inspiriert. Hierbei wollen wir jeden ansprechen, dem unsere Umwelt und vor allem die Sauberkeit unserer Flüße und Ozean, bzw. Strände wichtig ist.
Valeska, wie kam eure Projektidee zustande?
Die Idee von dem Ganzen ist eher so entstanden, dass wir rumgescherzt haben mit Kameramann nach China zu fliegen um uns zu begleiten. Und dann dachten wir es sei eigentlich voll die coole Idee und zwar nicht den klassischen Surffilm-Fokus auf den einzelnen Surfern zu haben um sich zu promoten, sondern mit einer Message die jeden anspricht. Da oft gerade asiatische Küstengebiete stark von dem Problem betroffen sind , haben wir uns vorgenommen unsere Chance bei so einem weitreichenden internationalen Event teilzunehmen mit unserer Verantwortung der Umwelt gegenüber zu kombinieren.
Was hat dich motiviert das Crowdfunding ins Leben zu rufen? Es kostet ja immer ein bisschen Mut bis aus Ideen ein echtes Projekt wird.
Ich bin mega dankbar, dass ich vor allem im letzten Jahr so viele aufregende Sachen erleben durfte und würde gerne irgendwie etwas zurückgeben. Es gibt so viele Dinge was man tun möchte, aber ich dachte das mit dem Plastik ist auf jeden Fall ein guter Anfang. Es ist super schwer den Plastikverbrauch auch selbst zu reduzieren, vor allem wenn man selbst nur auf einem kleinen Budget lebt (Einkäufe beim Discounter sind sehr schwer nachhaltig und plastikfrei zu gestalten). Aber ich denke, dass allein das Bewusstsein für die Plastik-Problematik ein Bewusstsein bei den Menschen schafft.
Was tust du selber für ein Plastik-freieres Leben?
Auf was ich selbst schon lange verzichte sind Plastiktüten, es ist so viel einfacher sich für seine Einkäufe eigene Taschen mitzubringen oder auch mal einen Karton aus der Gemüseabteilung weiterzuverwenden. Vor allem in der Weihnachtszeit beim Geschenkeshopping versuche ich Freunde zu ermutigen auf unnötige Tüten zu verzichten. Das sind vielleicht für manche Mini-Schritte, aber sobald solche "Kleinigkeiten" zur Gewohnheit werden, wagt man vielleicht einen nächsten Schritt zu noch mehr Nachhaltigkeit.
Mit dabei sind Chris Salt, der mit seiner Meerkreativität eine Kunst geschaffen hat, aus scheinbar Unbrauchbaren kreative und nachhaltige Kunst- und Alltagsgegenstände aus Plastik und Strandgut zu gestalten. Weitere Köpfe des Projekts sind Marie-Theres Ott, der ADH Longboardmeisterin 2017 und Julius Wenzel, Drittplatzierter im Sektor Longboard Men, ADH 2017.
This is what I am up too since I left my hometown Munich two years ago. I am living and working in this beautiful spot called Jangawonderland, located in the town Figueira da Foz at the Portuguese coast and it feels like home to me.
It´s a surf camp specialized for surfers - their performance, their training and their well being.
We offer high performance surf coaching, physiotherapy, surf-related fitness training, yoga and wellness. We think that everyone, regardless to the age can learn how to surf and enjoy this feeling of being active and part of the global sensation called surfing.
This morning I realized that the endless summer is over here in Portugal. I woke up to see frostbite on my window and so when I went outside and breath in the cold, crisp air it felt like winter finally arrived. The mornings are cold and to defeat the urge to stay in your warm bed costs a lot of willpower. But if you finally made it into your wetsuit, over the ice-cold sand of the beach into the lineup - nothing can beat your mood of the day. Because you made it!
Sitting in the lineup is always special for me and even more special if you can watch those spectacular sunrises in fading pastel colors until the sun beats the shadow of the earth and the waves glow in this magical bright blue while the waves are rolling in, slow and glassy because there is not even a breeze of wind these mornings.
The feeling of cold air in your face, a board under your feet and gliding on those mellow waves is pure joy for me. And even better when the seagulls wake up at the beach, swarming out to the horizon and flying over your head in this clear blue sky to welcome the returning fishermen, which will feed them their fish-breakfast.
The last day of our little road trip we slept in a modern luxury beach house in Faro.We woke up before sunrise to get this one in a lifetime experience of living this `California Dream´ feeling of stepping out of your door to directly have sand under your feet. From bed to beach in under 10 meters is amazing. We went for a little surf in small waves during the sunrise in magical pink and peach light before getting breakfast and leaving this place to drive back home.
Wandering on water like a bird wandering the sky.
Glassy waves, so small there are barely there.
Playing fish under your feet, reef, sand and stones.
Sunshine on your soul.
The water is my element. From frozen to wet, from fresh to salty, I like every chemical state of it. And as in every good relationship in some days love is darkened by fear, trouble, and hate, while on other days your feeling towards a beloved partner is uplifted by feelings of joy, inner peace, and happiness. This day I felt everything.
The forecast for this day was perfect since a long flat summer period of surfing. The swell was hitting from West, with 16-18 seconds period and with an average predicted wave size of 6-8 feet, height increasing during the day. Also, the wind was said to be really calm. All in all a perfect day for every surfer.
So everyone who had time and the skills were in the water. I was ready for this day as well. Flippers and wetsuit in the trunk of the car, batteries of my camera loaded and a cleaned and cold-blown water-housing. I was more than ready.
As we arrived in Buarcos, Figueira da Foz, the said to be the longest right-hander of Europe nobody of us was disappointed. Big waves in a clean set-up. The only bad thing was the weather. It was moody, the clouds hung deep over the horizon and the water shade was a dark green-blue-gray.
I swam out while my friends were already in the lineup. When I was on my way out I already had time to shot, only to get washed away by the first bigger set. Buarcos is hard to get out. You have to paddle around 200-300m to the outside to get to the peak. The heavier the swell, the harder the way. I thought I was prepared for this kind of wave, had thoughts of `just dive under it`. Well, it worked but I forgot the pull of waves of this size. I got sucked in front of the peak and the waves didn´t stop. I didn´t know what to feel except the urge to get away from this `danger` as soon as possible. I was near the first panic attack. Wanted to get out, just back to the beach to safe ground. No water.
But somehow I overcame it. No fear, just fun to be out there. I made it through the never ending white wash and somehow I forgot how hard it felt in the beginning. At the outside, my friends looked at me with fascination and those who didn´t know that I planned to go swimming in there that day, looked at me like they have never seen me before. Yes, for them I must have been crazy.
My view between two set-waves
The waves were rolling in, while I was hanging in the water near the impact zone, I could watch the others, see them having fun. Their actions and feelings visible in their faces are an always returning pattern. When they see a set rolling in they are like a group of seals in their wet rubber suits, paddling out to get the best place to get the wave. While they paddle into the wave, their faces show a mix between concentration, fear or admiration which is finally turning to pride when the board starts to glide with the wave. The concentration is still there and sometimes they laugh in joy. When they paddle back into the line-up, they seem confident and happy. And I am happy with them. Happy to be able to get them moving. It´s a strange agreement between a surfer and a water-photographer (to-be): There is kind of a still understanding between both of them giving the best. The best trick against the best possible angle for a picture of this moment. Both parties care for each other. The surfer tries to do the most radical trick just around 50cm next to the head, hands, and lens of the photographer, who is simultaneously trying not to be in the way of the surfer. It´s like a dance.
As beautiful and even peaceful it can be to be in bigger waves, as dangerous and exhausting it is as well. All those pictures show the easy side, the fun side of my hobby. The moments of waves turning into art, because they stand still and seem graceful. And yes I really like it. But there is much more behind this day. To get a nice picture of a surfer on a wave you have to sit in front of the peak. Only then you can ban his actions on film. But that means you have to dive a lot. 15, 20 waves when there are two big sets rolling in. Dark, menacing walls of water are rising in front of you. And that is the moment you are not allowed to feel fear. You have to feel respect for this liquid wall, that could crush and drown you. But first of all, you have to keep calm. Get into a routine of breathing, waiting for the perfect moment, diving deep under the wave, waiting till the undertow of the wave is gone, breaking to the surface and breathing in again.
I would lie if it was this easy for me. I was a competitive swimmer more than half of my life, I am at home in the water, I am not afraid of the ocean, nor the animals in it. But this day, this waves tested me and I nearly failed. The last picture above this text shows the last big set, the last picture I took. It came out of the nowhere, no signs. I already got two normal sized sets on my head and then this 12 feet monster rolled in. And I just saw the lips crushing down. I knew that I would never make it out far enough to get out of the impact zone. My biggest fear of surfing are those heavy lips of bigger and steeper waves. In this moments I panicked a bit. I made it through two of these monsters. Tumbling, shaking and trying not to get lost under this waves. I got sucked directly in front of the peak. No chance to paddle away. I was stuck in the bubbly, foamy sucking impact zone. Stuck in my upcoming fear and panic. Yoyo tried to help me while I was sobbing, feeling helpless. I didn´t breathe properly, I had no air for a clear mind. I panicked that I would drown there.
Luckily the human body is nothing against a wave and its strong pull. So while I was screaming, swimming, fighting against my fear and panic, I get washed nearer to the beach onto the next obstacle. Buarcos is a point-break, the beach is a long section of long reef-tongues with sand bays in between. Mid-tide I could stand knee to hip- deep on the rocks while the waves smashed my ankles against the rocks. Beach was near and oh so far. I was in pain and full of fear of drowning because I saw no chance of getting away. My boyfriend insulted me of stupidity, and I got angry. And then the clear mind and the willpower to get out of this came back. So thank you Yoyo, also when I said I would never get into the water with you again. We swam away from the rocks, a little bit to the outside and then found a safe way back to the beach.
To be honest, if I would have known that all this happened to me, I wouldn´t have get into the water that day. I prefer to be safe than sorry. But I did. So I had no chance to elude the situation. All those small little situations had to appear, and I somehow managed them. I didn´t drown, I didn´t get hurt badly, I didn´t lose my camera. I didn´t get out of this situation with glory or pride. I was a whiny little girl, shaking of adrenaline. But I made it, it was my baptism of salty water and I will do it again. Because now I know what can happen, now I am prepared to get into more of this risky situations. That day I just lost a little bit of my naivety.
Namasté or "Fly with me"
Today I tried Aerial Yoga for the first time ever. Of course I have heard about this trend/sports already and was amazed how beautiful this form of yoga combined with acrobatics can look on someone who is able to do that.
I was always keen to try this out, but back then I was never able to find something similar in Munich. And to be honest, I never researched properly...
So our new Yoga teacher in my workplace, the Janga Surfcamp, offers also two Aerial Yoga classes every Sunday and Monday for every level.
You know that a decision was a bad idea when you can´t stop thinking if you did the right thing together with a strange feeling in your stomach, if you can´t sleep well or a generally in a bad mood. I bet you also found yourself in a situation like this more or less often in your life. This is how I felt the days before last weekend, since the day I came to the decision it would be a nice idea to compete for fun - remember that I said I will do it for fun - in the female open of a little surfing event called `Reggae & Waves` in Costa do Lavos.
For people who don´t know me or didn´t read further than clicking on my blog header till now, I am not good at doing sport events for fun. I was never good at it. I would love to say it´s my dad´s fault only, because he trimmed my sister and me to the thoughts that `only a winner gets respect` , but I am an adult person and I am more or less the ruler over my own thoughts and values. And somehow losing is not an option for me sometimes.
So I went to the contest, said hello to my friends and acquaintances and watched the waves. On Saturday it was huge, so the contest for the women should started only on Sunday. Sunday morning the waves were still a mess - a big mess - but able to surf.
I was in really a positive mindset before starting. I tried to be not overly nervous nor to be afraid. I just went for getting my jersey and got back down at the beach to worm my muscles up a bit. And I had a clear aim in my head: Just surf for yourself!
Especially I had to surf against two girls who surf way longer, better and bigger waves than me. I also had a strategy. But oh boy, I was so wrong.
Getting in the water was easy, paddling out not so much and keeping on the same spot was absolutely impossible. I tried, I fought and I maybe got the record of duckdives on this day, but I was not really able to surf on single wave. It was a mess. So in the water while paddling against the current I gave myself another 5 minutes. Paddle on, Julia! If I still would struggle after this I would go out and end this the best way.
And so it came. After around 12 minutes of the 25 minutes of the heat I left the circus ring. I didn´t even pop up on the waves which took me safely to the beach, i just layed on my board. And I wanted to cry, just because in this moment of giving up, all the pressure that was bundled on my shoulders felt of. I also was angry with myself, maybe because in my head I unknowingly set my intentions too high, and in this part of my brain I was a looser by giving up and not being able to surf.
Now after one week thinking of this event I can see all clear: I am a looser. But in a complete different way. I lost my fear of duck-diving bigger and messier waves. I lost my virginity in competitive surfing. I lost in the semi-finals. I lost a little bit of my old ´only the fittest can survive`-attitude. I slightly lost the imagination that everyone is always judging me and so I have to perform in the best possible way.
And that´s exactly what I did. I performed in my best possible way. I tried and I failed in winning, but I was my personal best in giving it a try and fighting against my inner fear and doubts. I fought against the waves and current, but the final boss was my mind. And somehow I fooled my brain during the competition that day.
Surfing is no fun! Just kidding, surfing is fun but never just smiles and sunshine like this sport is displayed in all the media and movies at the moment. It´s a lot of willpower, commitment, anger and frustration, especially when you try to get better, improve your technique and get faster. You will learn that you are so small, elements just do what they want with you. Wind, waves and the water itself will do everything to let you doubt your skills and leaving you feel like a loser.
But practice makes perfect and so I tried to do my best the last days even when the conditions where far away from good. A lot of onshore wind, short period and wobbly and very fast waves that kind of closed in the moment they started to break. Anyways I had a lot of duckdives to do and my technique and my triceps power is improving. Even when there is no visible peak in the beginning and your sitting in a flabby soup of salt water, your eyes learn how to perceive the tiniest little bit of peaks of an incoming set. Even when you have to change your position in the lineup (wobblyup this days) all the time to catch a tiny wave.
To catch one of those waves is another thing. You need a lot of paddle power and have to be quite fast. It´s really frustrating when you can´t do nothing and the wave is just playing with your board by its own rules. To manage a turn or just riding a long the face seems impossible. So I was first really angry with myself and put me under a lot of pressure to succeed in this conditions. But understanding that it lays in your own hands to have fun or a "nice surf" took a while. I was grumpy, I blocked my skills with my doubts and I couldn´t find joy. I don´t know what exactly brought me back to enjoying this training, maybe understanding the fact that I am able to be our there and not trapped in a typical 9 to 5 job. Or that it was a lesson in surfing-technique and a success in a step-by-step improvement in my skills. Also maybe the ocean washed away my bitterness and let me enjoy the moment that in the end it felt like I did the right thing getting wet and salty yesterday.
Paddle on, Julia!
will be my own motivational quote from now on! Happy Surfing my dear readers! Don´t let your mind block your abilities!
Good Morning World!
During the last year I really tried a lot of different kind of breakfasts - just juices, or energy protein shakes, bread with honey and a nice chocolate drink, green tea or matcha tea and fruits. I took a while till I adapted the breakfast-bowl habit that so many other people have. My mother would laugh because of this terminology and would call this "muesli with fruits"! And basically that´s what it is! A nice medium sized bowl of oats and kernels, different fruits and not even a super-food supplement (because to be honest, I already owned a lot! of this so called super-food supplements and I never felt any difference even I ate them quite often.) The size is about one big handful of oats and gives me enough energy to work till lunchtime or to go surfing without leaving me feeling hungry and drained.
Scroll down for the recipe
Ingredients Summer Breakfast Bowl:
Just mix it all together, let the oats and chia seeds soak up in the rice milk a little bit and add the fresh fruits and enjoy!
I proudly present my first attempts of in-water photography with my big camera from a few days ago in a stormy surfing session with on-shore wind and western swell.
I used to go in the water with my GoPro more often in the last time and because I had a lot of fun hanging in front of the peak or the surfers board-nose I decided to finally buy a water-housing for my sony a6000 - and like the coincidence decided my photographer friend which helped me a lot already had his old water-housing for sale!
It´s hard to swim in the current and with the waves and you have to dive a lot because you have to be in front of the braking wave and while you do all this you still have to handle the camera - but it´s so much fun for me. Also to observe the other surfers and what they do or to intuit what they might do as their next move helps me a lot to get better in surfing myself. I am often really afraid of those massive looking water lips when they are in front of you. The more I have to dive and the more I have to swim in the impact zone or near from it, the more I lose my fear because my brain realizes that it´s just water and that there are things that hurt much more than getting a wave slapped into your face or on your ear.
I will definitely train this summer to be fit in autumn and winter when the wind gets off-shore and the swell hits the shore with constant 10 ft and the perfect lines will roll in here in Figueira da Foz, Portugal.
Hey folks and a salty welcome back!
Today I finally had the time to go for a little surf in between working. A house and a pool doesn´t renovate themself! But today the forecast looked nice and also the wind which was blowing really heavy the last days kind of disappeared so I decided to go for a little training session.
Beginning of July when I was visiting my family in Munich, I got a little surprise sent to Portugal from Nixon. They sent me the basetide watch of their new and really amazing collaboraton with Pro Surfer Leila Hurst. It can tell me the time and the tides and it was light baby pink! The same colour as my new surfboard! And still, I was very sceptical, because I never trust "waterproof" labeled gear because I already destroyed a lot during the last years. So I tested it today! And what should I say! The watch (I always wear my watch over my wetsuits) only slipped once over the neoprene to my skin and this was in a bigger wave which I duckdived. I could always read the time, I could handle the timer and the chronograph also in the water. And even when I smeared some wax (by accident I swear, I´m not always in control of my movements!), I easily got it off! And the most important thing: The watch still works! So the only thing I can say: Well done! And I´m very happy to finally have a nice, smooth watch for surfing. Thank you Nixon Europe!
P.S. If you know want to have more technical details of the watch just head over here.
i´m proudly presenting... No, just kidding. It´s my first video ever that I shot with my GoPro in the water and edited it by myself and without help. I´m just proud that I finally finished this project. I took me ages, nerves and a lot of coffee (and I´m even not a coffee person) but it was also a lot of fun. And to see it in the end makes me smile because I remember this day out in the water with my friends.
Have fun watching it!
© Ricardo Santos Luís
welcome back here. However you found my blog, one thing safe to say that you just didn´t stumbled over it. This blog - my experiment - is frankly said too tiny to find me through an accident or unspecific search for surf blogs for girls. And you know what, that´s totally fine for me!
Guess the person who is reading this is actually my Mum ( hello <3) or one of the persons how is following one of my social media sites and saw an update somewhere. And now I can start with the actual blogpost.
One thing first. The Internet is one of the greatest inventions ever if you just look at the positive sites! It´s a huge mess of creating connecting, creativity and global spirit. It makes us rule the world. But with this great opportunity to use all those popular tools - instagram, snapchat, facebook for communitation or pinterest, twitter, tumblr and youtube for creativity and entertainment- your own spirit and creativity can get lost.
How often do I catch myself with the thought "Julia, you should post something" while the voice of my inner sanity says "it´s just instagram, it´s not important in your life" And to view it from the outside, no it´s absolutely not important. But somehow there is this strange need to be present in this mad cosmos of showmanship. And why? Because everybody does it! Why? Because our humanity is linked to acknowledgement and admiraton from other humans. I want to be seen as creative, intelligent, caring and a person with which you wanna be friends. But this is fake, because I am also a person with bad mood, unpatience, laziness and so much more things you normally don´t tell anybody at first sight.
And even those people who tell their audience they are `real` are just showing splinters of their personality. I know all of this, yes. But I also ignore it oh so often. I see all those perfect pictures of perfect moments in perfect lives. I know it´s fake but my brain is exploding. First I get those impacts on my creativity. I see inspiring things and I immediately want to do something with my life. i´m creating projects, things to do, daydreams and goals I want to reach.
The next thing I feel is resignation.`I´ll never be good enough in surfing, photography, painting, blablabla. Also with the thoughts of ´I´m not good enough in anything.´ The final step is desperation: "I´m bad, I´m useless" and "I´m a nobody, no one is interested in my life" - During this phase I hate myself the most and do everyone of my friends and family an injustice, because I accuse everyone with a lack of interest in my person. As if. Also I stay in my room for hours -sometimes days and all I do is hating myself for being not as perfect as I want to be and drowning in self-pity. This is a short, but also honest view on my moods.
But how crazy is this? How can a programm/social media platform and the society using it get so manipulated in their feelings and true purposes. Nobody likes a liar. But we all are somehow. Nobody likes a narcissist, but we all are. It´s hard to believe in yourself as a normal human being, a complete average person, if there is always someone how seems to be better than you. It´s hard to be pleased with your own life, if there is somebody who seems to have a better life. I can take myself as a good example for this case. Really often people - strangers, but also friends - tell me how jealous they are. Jealous that I live near the ocean, that I´m always at the beach or surfing. And yes, I understand them, because the image I created in my feed is exactly this of a "Living life to the fullest-Julia", because it´s a part of my life. But other parts of my life, my work for example, my depressed thoughts and bad moods, my family story, all my daily-life problems are filtered.
Don´t get me wrong, I love social media and I still don't think it´s a bad thing, but only if you don't give this digital stuff too much room in your life! Especially if you don´t do a living out of it. I for myself switched off all the notifications of my social media apps, so my phone is easier to handle because it stays silent and I can decide if and when I want to check the apps. Once I had a rule that I have to upload one post per day, everyday. I also don´t do this anymore. In the beginning the rule was helping me with my creativity, creating pitures and having ideas and in the end I felt stressed because I "had to upload". Now I don´t care. Same for Instastories. Maybe there will be a time where I am more active again, but at the moment I concentrate on my life and my work. With this kind of balance and "doesn´t matter"-attitude I feel safe and sound and have a lot of fun. And even though the internet world and social media - exceedingly instagram - is not real, I still met a lot of amazing and inspiring real people behind their photo feeds and I am very grateful for that!
Three extiting days in the forgotten Portuguese surfing destination Figueira da Foz. The city hosted the third stop for the annual Portuguese National Championship Tour at the surfspot Cabedelo. Cabedelo is kind of a Pointbreak and is giving a perfect setup for the competition because the wave is very consistend and the specators can sit really close to the surfers due to the pier. Watch a short video here and here!
For me it wasn´t the first time seeing a contest, but it was yet a very exiting experience to see friends compete against eachother or other famous Portuguese surfers - while normally they sit in the line-up next to you. To see the level of Portuguese surfing - especially groms surfing against adults in the open class - was amazing and is showing clearly the progress of professional surfing for the future.
Also the most unusal thing in surfing - the women competition was held at the first day with the best and biggest waves. Normally this conditions are always reserved for the men comps.
We got the "VIP"-Acess for the event,which was nice to have but definately not a must. The only big plus of this wrist band was get cooled drinks or water for free. But hey when sitting at the pier watching hours and hours of different and thrilling heats in the sun I was really happy about a lot of water!
Also the whole ambient was nice and familiar and due to the fact that my boyfriend knew a lot of the surfers - because he surfed with them when he still was a competitive surfer as well - I got to know them a little bit better. I was never and will never be a groupie or fangirl in my life. I don´t care that the person is maybe a famous person. The only thing I admire is their dedication to their sports. If I meet athletes in their private life then often without knowing what they do. And I couldn´t care less.
But when I do then what I care about is their view on their life - their work life. I like to talk with people who they deal with stress and pressure. How they train or what tipps they have for surfing. The idiom "learn from the best" is just the truth for me. How do they put away their frustration or the urge to win to be imortant enough for their sponsors and earn money. And so I had a really nice chat with one of the Portuguese surf trainers. He just said that in the end the athlete has to learn that winning is just good for two things: The ego and the bank account. And that contentment is brought about simple things in life and letting go the thought of being relevant for the world.
Gony Zubizarreta - Yoyo Terhorst
Aloha from Swell Café. Homemade Salads, Veggie-Burgers, fresh Juices and Smoothies are the best and healthiest option before or after a good session out there in Cabedelo, Figueira da Foz.
Feeling hungry is an essential sensation for me, especially when I have been playing in the waves and had a good surf session. This kind of session when the waves are rollin´ in so perfect that you feel pure bliss to be out there in the blue, feeling the movement of the waves and being able to feel connected to the ocean with all his wonders. When you forget about everything just to take just another perfect wave. And if you surf as well, you know what I mean.
The surfspot called "Cabedelo", Figueira da Foz in Portugal is one of those places where you can find those lined perfection. And to be honest, from spring to fall - when Europe is the nearest and cheapest destination for surf tourism ( for German, Swiss and English people for example) - nobody wants to keep his lunch box in the car when the sun is making it a sauna. So what? Heading over to this new Surf Cafe if your´re hungry! Why? To fuel your body up for the next couple of ours in the water.
Fresh and healthy food rich in vitamins, good carbs, fatty aids and just tastefulness will reload your muscles with power! You can choose between freshly pressed juice in different options or iced smoothies with superfoods like chia as a beverage. To carb yourself up take a homemade Veggie-Burger with lentils, red bell pepper and hummus or a big salad with salmon, cucumber and rucola. Try the fries! They are not greasy at all and super delicious and crispy. And if you are still hungry try the desserts. Home-made muffins, granola energy bars or just a fresh acai-bowl will let you feel happy and satisfied in the end. - For all the guys out there which prefer meat or "need meat" - you´ll also find enough options to make you happy.
Enjoy and see you in the water ! xx Julia
here is a little photo-diary of our boat-daytrip from Lanzarote. The brother of our friend is living there as well and owns a little boat-company. He also has one fishing boat which is not used any more so he repaired and redesigend everything and now it´s a pretty neat boat with lots of space for sun lounging and having a comfortable and relaxed time during the trips. It even has a bbq hanging over board to grill food! We went out on the south end of the island and headed to Fuerteventure to find dolphins. Sadly it was a bright day and a lot of boots were on the water so I guess those wild beauties hid somewhere else. We went back to anchor at the south-western coast of Lanzarote to have a dip in the ocean and to enjoy our bbq and the sun. It was a total awesome day ! The one thing I didn´t liked is the fact that the boat is still a motorboat with an engine and I prefer to sail because it is a lot safer for the environent.
as promised in my last post I´ll finally show you some of my Lanzarote water pictures and tell you a bit about our surfing experience there.
We just tried 3 different spots placed overall on Lanzarote - two of them even really famous spots for this kind of sport. But I am sure there are a lot more to explore but we just hadn´t enough time.
First we visited "La Santa", a reefbreak and a righthander. I wasn´t in the water because it was really big, but my boyfriend tried his luck and was stoked. And even to sit on the rocks and watch this cristal-blue-turqouise waves rolling in is magical. Even normal tourists coulnd´t resist to take pictures of this view.
The second spot we tried is called "Famara", the most famous bay for all kind of water sports which involve a board. If there is no wind and good swell all the surfing people of Lanzarote are there. And because the bay and the variety of waves and peaks is big enough, normally everybody is happy. The surf schools have their spot and also the locals. So there are no bad vibes. And if there is too much wind the kite surfers come and enjoy the conditions as well. Due to bad wind conditions we didn´t went in the water, but our friend who lives there told us about quite good sessions he had there.
The last spot we tried was more per accident and because we had an urgent need to go surfing. So we checked the wind and swell-direction and just tried our luck up in the North of Lanzarote. And we found waves. Smaller ones but they were a lot of fun. The first day nobody was in the water with us - and just take a look at the pictures - crystal clear and really warm with about 22 degrees Celsius. The second day we had to share the lineup with three more people. All nice and friendly.
All in all surfing there was a amazing with the view and the water, although the waves were not the best. I am sure we would have found more of this hidden waves if we would have searched for them. All in all we are used to better waves, but this was maybe caused by the strong wind we had this week and a really strange big to small swell. But we were happy and it was a complete different surrounding and different conditions from our homespot. So we will definitely come back one day.
Imagine you just take this little gadget that your Mum uses to measure her blood pressure and try it out. And within seconds you can see that your own heart pressure is way too high. You don´t believe this gadget, technical equipment sometimes doesn´t work properly. You try again and it´s the same. Because you listen to your mum you make an appointment at the doctor and inform some people if they knew a good cardiologist or general doc. Within three days – with the same pulse and blood pressure after waking up – four different doctors tell you all the same: “Take rest or you might die due to too much stress for your heart”. BOOM!
They tell you “You have to check everything, you have to change your life” and “You´re too young and to healthy to suffer from heart issues” BOOM!
And you just see your life floating away. My first thought was “O my god, why?” and my second “What´s going on now. What should I do in my life?” A bit overly dramatic, maybe. But my life is all about movement at the moment. I love to go surfing, I just found back and I ordered a new surfboard to improve my skills. And now? I am not allowed to go surfing!
I trained for my first trail run ever this Sunday. No – I´m not allowed to participate! Same goes for boxing, for gym, for swimming, biking, everything that I really like to do. I´m not allowed to drink alcohol, caffeine or eat too much sugar. I should eat oil-free and not too much animal protein (that´s fine- thanks. I´m happy with veggies)
First, I have to do a big check-up: heart, lungs, kidneys and blood. If they don´t find a failure in my bodily functions, maybe it´s my mind then. Maybe it´s nothing at all? I shall relax and enjoy my life. And I just can´t.
I´m so so scared that something is not right and I´m worried about my life and I´m questioning everthing.
Yes, I like a quiet life, sometimes. I like to take pictures with my camera and work with them. I like to read and watch BBC documentaries or go to the cinema. I like to go for walks at the beach and in the forest. I like to listen to music. But I just can´t imagine to do just those things. Those no-movement things.
At the moment I´m just rotating about all the possibilities that could be and on the same time being highly desperate about knowing nothing and being emotional about all that. I just could burst in tears at least every 5 hours. And I never cry.
But I believe in the good things in life and that all what you give is coming back to you. And I´m so grateful for all the good wishes and nice calls i got the last days since I talked about my worries open - and I believe that there will be a way out our a way to life with the issues! Today I´ll have an appointment at the cardiologist. Wish me luck!
Hi Lovelies, finally a part of our adventures in Lanazrote. This time it´s all about vulcanos and beautiful strange landscapes, which seem to belong to another planet.
Lanzarote is one of the seven Islands that are building the Canary Island a few kilometers away from the African Coastline. The origin of all those islands are vulcanous nature and can be dated back a few million years. And what´s more obvious if you are on an vulcano island with not extinct fire moutains as to visit them to see this magestic wonders of earths history? So we went with our car to the Timanfaya National Park, a 52km² big area with 32 of the most dangerous vulcanos sticking out of the lava fields which cover all in all about 170km² of the whole island. In the 18th century the eruptions of these vulcanos destroyed villages and killed hundres of inhabitants. The whole dangerous part is not passable with your normal car, so you have to buy a ticket for the area which includes a bus tour - even if this was the most touristic thing I ever did, the view was absolutely worth it - and the possibilty to eat at the restaurant where the food is grilled with geothermal heat. You can also watch the demonstrations of boiling water in small tubes sticking in the earth and burning wood because the temperature of the earth is already about 400 degrees celsius 10m below the surface. All in all, it´s a must-see in Lanzarote, even if its a very touristic and crowded place, but just for the view and as a reminder that we humans are really small and not so important at all. Just being there and seeing,smelling and thinking about this acts of power let you feel excited, amazed and thankful to live.
But now i´ll just let my pictures speak for itself.
soon it´s Valentinesday and even if I personally never need a special occasion to eat chocolate you might find this little recipe useful to treat your loved ones. I got it from my girl Tanja - and believe me she is a master chef in vegan/raw baking. So cheers to her and thank you to let me share this here! <3
Silken Tofu 200g
Dark Chocolate 250-300g
Agave Syrup - as much as you like/
1 small cup of Coffee/Espresso
What to do?
Enjoy it! xx, Julia
this is my Photo Diary of eight amazing days in Lanzarote, one of the Canary Islands. One week filled with adventures like climbing volcanos and cliffs, surfing, snorkeling and swimming in the salty sea, being outdoors nearly 24 hours of the day enjoying the island and all its amazing nature or just being lazy and lying by the pool eating Tapas. This was one of my best trips so far - also my most western travel destination yet - but definetly not the last trip to the Pirate Islands. More detailed post will follow this week, for now enjoy this sneak peak on the island trough my camera.
I wish you all a happy mid of the week! Since I started surfing again, I just don´t want to stop. This week I spent more time in the water than ever, thanks to good swell conditions and nearly no wind. Also I tried a new board from a friend. It´s a 5´10 shortboard and thinner and way less volume than my 5´11 board or my 6`6 egg. I was a bit afraid in the beginning that I won´t catch waves, feel uncomfortable on the board, etc. but I was just perfect! And finally I can allow myself to have fun in the water again and feel comfortable out there on a board.
What should I say, I´m really happy to get along with this board so well. I´m just proud that I´m back in the water. We all know this situations when we want to be good at something, right? And my education through my parents was a bit more extreme. I was simply said, only a good child when I was really good in sports, school and as a musician. Today this means, I have a biiiig selfesteem-lacking problem if I am not that perfect in something.
I put myself under so much pressure in surfing, that I sat in the lineup crying about my lacking performance because I wasn´t as good in surfing as my boyfriend or friends of him which are surfing since ever or athletes which are getting paid to surf. So I got afraid of everything that was related to surfing, afraid of even small - and I mean really small waves - and after a horrible break-down in the water a few months ago, I stopped completely.
With the benefit of hindsight this was the best thing that could happen to me. In general it´s still a hard way for me because I have to learn to set realistic goals - not only in surfing. There is nothing wrong with aiming high, but I have to accept that this is my own journey. I have to accept and learn from my mistakes and that I am the only person that could judge the way of my living. But for now, I´m just glad that I am more relaxed in the lineup and that I´m beginning to have fun in the water again.
it´s time for a new start. It´s been a long time since the last entry, but what should I say... I was simply not keen in updating my life here - while Instagram is still full of my daily adventures. But since the new year, I can´t stop thinking about starting this blog again. So here I am.
And even if I´m not a fan of all this "new year, new me"- plans, I can´t help myself but setting up my own personal standards for the year. Simply said my phrase for the year will be "Do what you love more often"
So this first week of the new year I did all this what I like the most: I went surfing (again a thing that I stopped, just to see that I limit my personality and my personal happiness in doing so), I went to tge gym and had fun during my workous, I enjoyed the little things - like my 5 little cats. I sat in the sun, I read a book, I was doing yoga, I was in the nature to enjoy and also to take pictures and I started to eat more healthy again.
I hope you also had the time and the spirit to change or rebuilt your happiness and habits and if not? There is plenty of time to do so in this new year.
Good Morning Folks,
a few weeks ago, I got the message that I won a food and yoga package compiled by OGNX Clothing and BERIOO Superfoods. What should I say, I was stoked as it is well known that I´m quite a foodie and never say no to new healthy food options.
So another day I had a parcel in my postbox and after my cats cured their curiousness I was allowed to take a look inside. Next to the beautiful Mala-Jewelry, the cute bag from OGNX and the handwritten greetings I got a fresh Berry Smoothie, also a red Berry Muesli and to packages of different Snack-Blends for my Muesli or breakfast bowls.
To be a morning person, I normally never have problems to make myself a decent breakfast, but it is also nice to get up a bit later than usual while knowing you don´t have to put that much effort to create a nutritious meal.
For every bowl I just mixed 80g of the Red Berry Muesli with both - shame on me because i can never have enough dried fruits - snack blends and added some rice milk. As topping I used a handful of raw cacao nibs.
I prefer my breakfast bowls really "soggy" so I always prepare a cup of Maté or Green Tea while waiting for the perfect consistence of my food.
I wish you a great start in the day.
Namasté Folks and welcome back to the Flowing Friday Series.
This time with the "Head-to-Knee" - Pose, also called Janu Sirsasana and it´s an asymmetrical seated forward-bending pose.
Sitting is on of our worst habits as a human living in a modern society. Doesn´t matter if at work, at home, at university or in any form of transportation, most of our waking hours we spent on some chairs. Because of this habit the muscles in our spine, the joints of the spine and the ligaments have to suffer a lot. Also when we do a lot of sports e.g. running, fitness or for me also surfing, our backs have to work a lot. Muscles shorten and get tense, the spine is pushed into a position that is somewhat less than perfect and so the nerves and blood vessels have problems to do their work. We acknowledge the effects of the dysfunction of our back muscles and tissue in lower back pain, headaches, problem with breathing and fatigue.
To do something against this kind of diseases and indisposition this sitting pose is perfect. You don´t even need a yoga mat, just place a blanket on the floor or on the bed before going to sleep and stretch yourself out.
Sit with both legs straight on the ground and a unbowed back and be attentive to feel both pelvic bones on the floor. Relaxed your shoulders and just breath for a minute and calm down and relax. After feeling calm start getting into the pose. Flex your left leg and place the sole of the left foot on the inner tight of the right leg. It depends how flexible and open your hips are, if you are able to lay down your knee on the ground. If this position hurts, place the left feet shortly over or below your knee. Breath in and while breathing out, sink with your chest to the knee of the right knee. Don´t bow your back. Try to work with your breath to get deeper and also the forward folding has to come out of your hips. You should feel a stretching in the back and the sides of the back and in the leg that is grounded.
Breath deeply for 1-2 minutes and try to accept the light pain of stretching out. CAREFUL: There should be never a stretching in the knee. Also, if you feel getting a limb numb, slowly release the pose to prevent injuries. Change sites and repeat the pose with the right leg.
Good Morning Folks,
I´m back in my workout routine and therefor also in for my morning sport sessions. All you need for a kick start in the new day is some motivational music, a mat and nice workout clothes. Of course you can do the exercises also in an old t-shirt and a legging - but I recommend you to "invest" in a sports-bra, some shorts or tights. As soon as you wear your gear you will feel ready for the workout. And this is how you should want to feel: Ready to change your fitness habits! Ready to move! But don´t set your goals too high in the beginning or see this workout as an instruction to get "lean and fit" and get a "model body" like this chick on Instagram you admire for her amazing body.
This workout is to re-energize your body, to build up a bit of strength and mostly to get used to moving and feeling your body again. And this is no instruction how to do the separate exercises. I assume that you already did these kind of workouts and know how to do the movements.
You don´t have to do it in the morning, do it whenever you have time - but it will help the most if you do it right after waking up. It will cost you 15-20 min of your daily time. You think you need more time in the bathroom "preparing" your face for the day? No! A morning workout will make you much prettier than any make-up could do. After a HIIT (High Intensity Interval Training) session, your face will glow by itself, dark circles under your eyes will be gone, you won´t need a coffee to get fully awake and you just need a quick cold shower to be ready for the day.
LET´S START RIGHT NOW!
Push Up´s : My most hatred exercise, because I suck at this. I´m too weak in arms and shoulders. But because I have no expectations I normally can do more than I think I can do. And for all those who wonder why my forehead is nearly touching the ground. Sometimes I have the urge to do yoga and mix up movements. Here I have the automatism to put myself in Chaturanga-mode. Don´t do this! (P.s. Posture is wrong, oh so wrong. Core is weak, arms are in the wrong position. You can see my weakness!)
Do a set of 10 push up´s as technically correct as you can. Try to keep in mind that your core will help you to get down, so keep your abdominal muscles and your back muscles tense.
Side Plank: Try to hold the plank f0r 1 minute each side. If you can´t do this, split the minute in two 30-sec. sessions. You´ll see quick improvements in no time! Rest 30 seconds between the sites.
Starfish Plank: If you want to feel your side abdominal muscles burn try to do the starfish plank for 1 minute each side after doing the normal side plank. It will be painful, but it is worth it!
Side Lunges: Do 25 lunges per side. Try to keep your chest and back straight and just move your legs and turn the hips. Go as deep as possible with the legs. You should feel the muscles in your buttocks and the tights. Rest 30 seconds between the two sets.
Sit Up´s. Last exercise of the circle. Do 25 sit up´s without any rotation. You can change the level of difficulty while keeping your heels on the ground or putting up your legs in a 90 degree angle. If you already have rock-hard abs just do 50 repetitions, rest 30 seconds and than do 25 sit ups to the right and to the left side.
Repeat the circle 2-3 times, depending on your fitness level. After each circle, rest for one minute before starting again. If you want to drink water, just do it in this one minute, not between the separate exercises because it will impair your performance.
Don´t be angry or disappointed if your capacity during the second or third round drops. That´s just normal and exhaustion is necessary to give your metabolism the hint to burn body fat, while your muscles will strengthen and grow.
To fill up your body with nutritious carbs to prevent yourself from lacking energy in the first hours of your hours at work, eat a breakfast with oats, nuts and a handful of fruits to give your body carbs, protein and a bit of minerals and sugar to keep your metabolism satisfied.
I wish you a great start in the day.
and welcome back on my website. I know that nearly one week past without any new posts. It´s a simple answer why - because I found no time. Yes, I live next to the ocean but that doesn´t mean that my life is an ongoing vacation and I just have to do what I want. I have to work like everybody else and yes there a few days in a row I don´t even see the ocean because there is no time to look out of the window or even think about going for a quick surfing session. But it seems unfair for all the landlocked surfers here, that I complain about my life. I am not. I just talk about all the envious or jealous comments and messages I got in the past - even when I still lived in Munich - and which I get till today. NO - My life is not about waking up, going for a surf and spending the whole day at the beach. NO - I don´t have endless funds on my bank accounts or get paid for what I do on social media. NO - My life is not how it seems in my social media accounts. It´s just a way to express a part of my life. Please stop being envious or even aggressive because it seems that another person you may not even know in real life, is living a "better life" than you.
There is only one way to avoid criticism:
do nothing, say nothing and be nothing
- Aristotle -
Instead about hating others for doing what they love - just try to do what you love. Of course it seems hard in the beginning an in 99 cases out of 100 this may be true. But you´ll never know if you never try to step out of your comfort zone. And this blog here is also just a way to deal with all the difficulties and stories in my new life. And this is my story. My own adventure and I surely don´t force people to be part of that if they don´t want to.
But back to living and working next to the ocean. Of course it has its advantages. I can go for a run next to the beach or even on it. I can take a look out of my window when everything is "too much" and enjoy the view. I can go for a surf session nearly whenever I want, when my work schedule allows it - so at the moment not really that often. I can just breathe the air, the salty taste in the air of the ocean spray. I can watch the sun drown in the sea every evening. But that are just moment of my life. Most of the day I´m working or sitting behind my laptop or if not, there are always things to do in the surf camp or in our private rooms like buying groceries or cleaning. Just normal daily tasks. So I don´t live a glorious life, but a happy life. It can be hard sometimes, stressful but it´s my responsibility how I want to mold my life. And I can just give you the advice to do the same. I won´t let me take down by haters or other jealous people, that used to call me a "friend".
Let´s be more positive and open minded for other people´s life and stories. Create your own life and your own story.
Share the love, enjoy your life.
Hi Folks and Namasté
welcome back to Flowing Friday. This time with the Asana called "Pigeon Pose" with one leg grab. It´s a pose often seen on Instagram or other social networks because it catches the eye and also because it can - if totally bend - look really beautiful in many different versions. As I said - and I just can repeat myself here - don´t try to mess your flexibility and skills with the skills of other people. I´m still trying to improve my back bending flexibility and my hip opening skills to get fully into this pose, but compared to when I started, I made a really great progress and can be proud of myself.
But why doing this Asana? First here a few facts which impacts this pose will have on your body - always with the aim to improve and support your surfing skills as a girl. The pigeon is not a pose for balance, but for building up strength and furthermore flexibility. It opens your hips - which is important for making turns and quick pop-ups while surfing, It stretches out the muscles in your upper arms, shoulders and neck, butt and tights, which tend to be uptight and shortened because of the high strain during a surf session. Third it will make your back work. Your spine has to move in a deeper bending position and the muscles of your back get strengthened.
Last but least, how to get into this pose? Start from the Downward facing dog, flex the left knee and move it forward to the ground that you can sit down. Stretch the right leg to the back. Now try to grab your right ankle with your right hand as seen in the second picture. Try to push your hips to the ground but don´t press to hard. Try to flow into the hip flexing. If you feel comfortable or it seems too easy for you try to stretch the left arm in the air, look up to your hand and keep your shoulders down or bend a little bit more to the back. If it´s possible try to pull your ankle further to you and bend your back again a bit more. Breathing out while bending will help to go deeper in the flexing of your body.
To undo this pose put your arm down, sit straight again and slowly loose the grip around the ankle. Go back to the Downward facing Dog and flow into the Child's Pose to help your spine to get back into a natural position.
Warning: It´s normal and a side effect of improving your yoga skills that some positions may feel uncomfortable in the beginning. But never ever a single muscle, hamstring or bone should hurt while trying to get into a Asana. STOP RIGHT IN THE MOVEMENT and lower the tension if something hurts or feels completely wrong. Learn to listen to your body to prevent injuries.
Namasté and happy weekend
Hi Folks and happy Wednesday
The last few days here in mid-north of Portugal were really really flat- No swell and no waves at all. But you can´t call yourself a "true" surfer if you don´t try to find some waves that are good enough to surf them just for the joy of being in the ocean. Yes I know, there are people who are only go surfing when it´s pumping, some of them I can call my friends - but I am not that advanced or good at the moment. So I lend myself a longboard - also called a log - from a friend, packed my new wetsuit ( GUMM series, Retro cut, black dolphin skin from JANGA Wetsuits -available soon) and my stuff, asked Yoyo if he could take pictures and we went on a little road trip to find waves. We found some really small but still fun ones.
For me it´s not important to be the best one in surfing - neither in surfing on a smaller board, nor surfing on a log - but I´m aiming for improvement and fun. And I like it to challenge myself with different board types and designs and different conditions. When the waves are small, I always try to work on tricks on a longboard e.g. like walking to the tip of the board. I just started this kind of surfing this spring, and since then I surfed on a log 4 times, so I´m still a beginner and need to find my own personal style. If it goes well the next months I´m thinking about buying one for myself. And now I´ll let the pictures speak for themselves.
Hi and Namasté folks,
today with my first post of my weekly flowing yoga sequence. The next weeks I´ll give you the chance to learn more about different yoga positions - so called "asanas" - and the possibility to achieve knowledge about health benefits of different asanas, impacts on your skeleton, muscles and hamstrings and the positive effects on your mental state. First and most important thing to know if you practice Yoga is, that it is not important how flexible you are and that imperfection is desired. Every body is different. Of course it is necessary that you keep the right position of your body in mind while practicing yoga to prevent injuries, but more relevant is the fact that you bow and bend your body and breathe because you like the movement not because it is trendy and part of the so called "health movement" of our society. Don´t take a look at those impressive yoga Instagram accounts and believe you have to be that flexible or strong to be a real Yogi. Improvement will come with practice and on the long-run. And we all have to start somewhere. So take it easy and go with your own flow.
Yoga is also one of the best ways to improve balance, flexibility and the core muscular system - the three keywords to improve your surfing skills. Daily yoga practice will make you stronger - in a physical and psychical way - and after many days of sore muscles because of the unknown and new movements you´ll maybe like it. Personally, I don´t like the mystic and religious aspects e.g. the chanting in yoga or send prayers to the gods too much - while I still respect this kind of yoga practice - so I will express my yoga practice as part of a healthy and active lifestyle.
I practice Yoga to be flexible, strong and have a quick-response for surfing. Also some yoga styles help me to relax and unwind. I guess it´s all about the personal matter of taste, how so many things in life.
This asana is called the "TREE". This position is mainly helping to improve the balance and to calm down. Standing straight will activate the muscles in your grounded foot and the calves. Flexing the other leg, pressing the other feet on your standing leg will open the hip of the flexed leg and strengthen the tights. Also the muscles of your butt have to work. This combination of flexing the hip openers and building up power in your legs and feet will help you with your take-offs while surfing and standing safe and balanced on a surfboard. It´s important to search grip on your standing foot while doing this pose, trying to spread your body weight on toes and heels equally. You can hold the pose as well with the hands folded in front of your chest while keeping your elbows in a straight position stretched out to the left and right side. It seems easy to do this position and it´s really a beginners pose but try to maintain the balance while holding the asana for 10 - 15 breathes. Keep your body strong, the knee of the flexed leg pointing to the outside and press the palms together. Extra tip: Try to focus on a fixed point on the ground or the horizon to help yourself keeping balanced.
let´s be honest, the headline "How to motivate yourself" is a pretty common and often used phrase in women's magazines. Most of the articles are just a simple copy and past - work of the authors. Most of the praised tips and tricks just lure you in the position of thinking your life and your emotions are under your control. I also know this feeling - being often sluggish and poorly motivated to actually do something , universal advise helps you to feel not so lost in your life and full of energy - but just over a short time period. It helps to get you started with a new "project" , but it can´t help you on the long-run. Just think about the term "project" itself. In my opinion it should be called a goal, an aim which you want to archive. Let it be easy goals like to invest 30 min of your daily time to built up a sports routine up to really difficult and hard goals like to live a fulfilled and happy life. But how should we start when we live in a society in which even the easiest things like e.g. grocery shopping confuse us with endless possibilities?
" I think it´s time to ask yourself; what do you believe in?"
- Indiana Jones -
Even if Indiana Jones is just a movie character - he is one of my childhood idols - this saying is absolutely true and the meaning of this quote is your first step on your own motivational journey. What does makes you happy? What truly moves you? When do you feel free, calm and relaxed? Take a moment just to find answers to those questions.
To motivate yourself and stay motivated it isn´t enough just to want to change things for a short time. You have to believe in your change and you have to be fully aware of the fact that YOU are the only person in the entire world, who can find solutions for problems which hold you down.
But finding happiness and being satisfied seem so hard. Never forget, contentment is happiness. Every person is different, but everybody can find his own way. For me, happiness is calming down. I have a restless mind and if I´m in a depressed or bored mood my thoughts begin to spin around, circling about all the negative aspects in my life. So I need something that distracts me from being sad and lazy. Our society gives an easy solution for this widespread problem among the population. Its called consumption and in this case it doesn´t matter if you give capitalism the chance to strike again or if you binge watch the latest "must-seen" - TV show or just eating too much food only to have something to do.
Restart and rebuilt your social or private habits. Try to get back to a more natural way of relaxation. Try to get out of your normal comfort zone , find a new one. For me this is going for a walk in the nature alone or in company. And to make a conscious choice to set your mind free of any negativity. Enjoy what you see, feel, smell or taste. It hasn´t always to be in the most fancy way. Just relax, just find a way to unwind your mind. Make it a habit and it will help you to be less stressed and less capable of being burnt out. A calm mind is the first step to achieve happiness which leads to motivation.
Just for your information, while writing this article I felt stressed and first I didn´t know where to start and what to write. I´m not saying that I´m always fully motivated and that it is always easy to believe in the own goals, but I also believe that to struggle is part of the journey to find and keep your motivation. Giving up is always an option, but then you are not allowed to complain.
Hi, I´m Julia,
I´m 24-years old and originally born and raised in Munich, Bavaria, Germany.
I spent my whole life in my beautiful home town but now it´s time for a new chapter in my life.. For all the people who already know me better or are following my social media accounts for a while it´s no news that I chose to live at the ocean from now on. For all the new readers and strangers let me explain it to you.
It sounds cheesy but I felt in love with the sea when I was a little kid. Guess the love for the color blue is influenced by my first experiences and memories with the element water, better said with salty water. And today I´m stil fascinated by the endless wideness of the calming and powerful Blue.
So why I´m here? First, I re-did my A-levels, passed them now successfully. 5 years ago I failed them, left school, worked the last years and went back to school. It was hard sometimes - although I met great people - but even harder to know, that my boyfriend was building his surf camp here in Portugal. So I spent lots of money and nearly every vacation in Portugal. Here I started surfing 2 years ago - as well an endless ongoing love story in my life from now on - and here I also want to study marine biology or sports. Both classes I can combine with my love for the ocean. So, feeling free and being not bound to something in my life for the first time, it was just a little step to finalize the decision to leave Munich and start a new life in Portugal by the seaside.
I was really in doubt if I should start a digital diary, make my life more public. But I also thought "Give it a try" and this thought was stronger. I know that there are plenty of other blogs of young women in the world wide web, but I wanted to make a different appearance. This is not another fashion blog where you can find nearly no information but a lot of product placements (No offence - I also read them sometimes) and highly edited pictures. Instead this should be a part of me, a lifestyle blog with high emphasis on surfing, yoga and sports and the conflicts and experiences a girl goes through in the action sports world. Also how to prepare, nourish and strengthen your body to be healthy and " in shape" without the peer pressure on women of our society to be skinny and to diet yourself to death. I know that might sound bitchy, but I know how it is to eat too little and I also want to share this experience - from which I recover till today. So food and nutrition will be a part of this blog also. And at last leaving Munich, my family, my home and my dearest friends behind and moving to Figueira da Foz, working and living in a country which language I barely speak is easier to handle if you can relate your stories and share your daily experiences with others.
So here I am, taking you with me on my daily journeys in this new part of my life.