Surfing is no fun! Just kidding, surfing is fun but never just smiles and sunshine like this sport is displayed in all the media and movies at the moment. It´s a lot of willpower, commitment, anger and frustration, especially when you try to get better, improve your technique and get faster. You will learn that you are so small, elements just do what they want with you. Wind, waves and the water itself will do everything to let you doubt your skills and leaving you feel like a loser.
But practice makes perfect and so I tried to do my best the last days even when the conditions where far away from good. A lot of onshore wind, short period and wobbly and very fast waves that kind of closed in the moment they started to break. Anyways I had a lot of duckdives to do and my technique and my triceps power is improving. Even when there is no visible peak in the beginning and your sitting in a flabby soup of salt water, your eyes learn how to perceive the tiniest little bit of peaks of an incoming set. Even when you have to change your position in the lineup (wobblyup this days) all the time to catch a tiny wave.
To catch one of those waves is another thing. You need a lot of paddle power and have to be quite fast. It´s really frustrating when you can´t do nothing and the wave is just playing with your board by its own rules. To manage a turn or just riding a long the face seems impossible. So I was first really angry with myself and put me under a lot of pressure to succeed in this conditions. But understanding that it lays in your own hands to have fun or a "nice surf" took a while. I was grumpy, I blocked my skills with my doubts and I couldn´t find joy. I don´t know what exactly brought me back to enjoying this training, maybe understanding the fact that I am able to be our there and not trapped in a typical 9 to 5 job. Or that it was a lesson in surfing-technique and a success in a step-by-step improvement in my skills. Also maybe the ocean washed away my bitterness and let me enjoy the moment that in the end it felt like I did the right thing getting wet and salty yesterday.
Paddle on, Julia!
will be my own motivational quote from now on! Happy Surfing my dear readers! Don´t let your mind block your abilities!